Continuing on my 2024 end-of-year holiday posts (see here for Osaka [confusion.cc]), I want to cover some day-trips we did, before I dive into Kyoto. Over the two plus weeks we spent in Osaka and Kyoto we took three day trips: to Himeji, Nara and Uji. Nara and Uji are so close they almost don’t count as trips. Just a short train ride away, but we had a very relaxed schedule so even when they were close we got a late start and took our time to make a day of it.
I’ve been to all these places before. I first visited Nara was in March 2004, when J███████ S██████ and I went to visit J██ while he was living in Japan. That was my first ever trip to Japan (and my first time using a digital camera, the as the photos clearly show). You can see my blog entry and photos here [confusion.cc].
I visited Nara again, as well as Himeji and Uji for the first time a year and a half later, in December 2005 [confusion.cc]. J███████ invited me, along with Candice, to join him, his wife, K██, and J██, S██████, for a return visit.
So, 20 years from my first trip to Japan, I revisited these places with my daughters. So let’s have a little fun and compare the photos I took 2 decades ago with those from this trip.
Himeji
The first day trip we took, from Osaka, was to Himeji-shi [wikipeida.org] (Himeji city), home to Himeji-jō (Himeji castle). Himeji-jō one of the best preserved Japanese castles, having survived various natural and man-made disasters in it’s 400 plus years. The stark white walls of the main keep, the Tenshu, which sits atop a prominent hill, are visible from most of the city. The striking white color gives the castle its nicknames: Hakuro-jō, “White Egret Castle” or Shirasagi-jō, “White Heron Castle”.
By coincidence the castle was free to enter the day we arrived. Apparently celebrating its UNESCO World Heritage [whc.unesco.org] status. I guess its a thing they do every year? As Himeji-jō was inscribed in 1993 so 2024 would be the 31st anniversary, which doesn’t seem like a particularly important anniversary.
After touring around the castle grounds and making our way through the buildings, up to the top of the main keep and back down its steep stairs. We were rewarded with a rainbow over the castle as we walked back to the train station. Not a very bright one but a nice rainbow nevertheless.
For some comparison, the image on the left below I took in 2005 and the one on the right is from this trip in 2024, 19 years apart. Setting aside better equipment, having a better eye for photography and my greater skill at editing photos. It’s fun to see how little Japan changes.
Nara
Our second day trip, from Osaka was to Nara-shi [wikipeida.org]. Nara-shi was the capital of Japan, where the emperor lived for most of the 700s. As such there is a long and rich history of temples and shrines. Not as deep as Kyoto, given it’s 1100 years as the capital but impressive.
The two key attractions are the tame sika deer that roam around and Tōdai-ji, home of Daibutsu.
The deer are everywhere in Nara Park where most of the temples and shrines that are part of the UNESCO site are located. Tourists, local and foreign alike, buy deer crackers to feed them. Some of the deer will even bow to the people feeding them. But you also see a lot of skittish people being mobbed by several deer at a time, getting overwhelmed, dropping their crackers, sometimes even getting a gentle headbutt from a deer when they fail to hand over a cracker fast enough. All cute and funny but apparently the deer in Nara Park are malnourished and stunted as they eat too many of these deer crackers and not enough wild foliage.
Tōdai-ji [wikipedia.org], “The Great Eastern Temple” is a Buddhist temple that houses Daibutsu or “The Great Buddha”, a massive bronze status of the Buddha Vairocana. The building the Buddha sits in, the Daibutsuden or “Great Buddha Hall” and was the largest wooden building in the world until 1998. The current building dates to 1709 having been rebuild, some 30% smaller than the original, which burned down.
The temple sells roof tiles that you can write on for the ongoing repairs. My friends and I bought one back in 2004, and this time I got one from my daughters to sign and date. So, somewhere on the roof of the Great Buddha Hall there are tiles with my name and my daughter’s names.
Here are two shots of the Daibutsu, fairly close in composition to compare. One from my first trip to Japan in 2004 and one from 2024:
Uji
The last day trip we took was to Uji-shi [wikipedia.org]. Uji is famous for a few things, it’s a major setting in The Tale of Genji [wikipedia.org] a Japanese novel written in the 11th century. Uji is also famous for it’s cultivation of green tea, it’s home to the oldest tea house in Japan (and the 30th oldest company on earth) you wouldn’t know that passing this unassuming building on your way to the other major site: Byōdō-in [wikipedia.org].
Other than to drink green tea, Byōdō-in is why we went to Uji. It’s a Buddhist temple. According to Wikipedia the building was built in 998 as a villa and converted to a temple in 1052. The main building was completed in 1053 and is commonly called the Hōō-dō or Phoenix Hall, though officially it is Amida-dō. This is the building that has been on the back of the 10 Yen coin since 1951. The building and grounds are beautiful, and you have to go just so you can say you’ve been there every time you show someone a 10 Yen coin.
Anyway, wondering around the temple grounds and shopping for green tea were the only things we really did in Uji. It was a relaxing day and not too crowded. And once again, the late autumn was in our favor as there was a lot of colorful foliage around the temple.
For comparison, below is a shot from 2005 of the Phoenix Hall, and one from 2024 taken from almost the same position. You can see how much renovation work has been done to the Phoenix Hall in the past two decades.
You can see the full photos set from Himeji [flickr.com], Nara [flickr.com] and Uji [flickr.com] on Flickr, or browse the galleries below.